Layering was a key trend at New York Fashion Week as it continued its sixth day of fall previews Tuesday, with a mix of fabrics that created a textured look. A few designers like Peter Som and Alexander Wang showed models who looked like they’d thrown on everything in the closet all at once.
Another trend was the contrasting sleeve, using a different material than the rest of the outfit, a look featured at Chris Benz and Derek Lam, among other shows.
For all that layering, you need a tissue-thin, long-sleeve T-shirt to go underneath it all. And a coat that’s a little roomier for all those layers.
RODARTE
The bittersweet drama that played out on the Rodarte runway reminded fashion insiders why Kate and Laura Mulleavy have become such a big deal in such a short time.
The theme of their collection was the hazy state of consciousness that comes between sleep and being awake. Lovely, lace-draped dresses in a light, almost dusty palette captured the feeling of vintage lingerie and wallpaper prints, but there was something weighing on them, too — a seriousness, a respect.
The chunky knits, sometimes with yarn fringe, were just on the right side of looking well loved and worn in, yet luxurious in a way that a designer collection demands.
The layers that have been so popular at New York Fashion Week were certainly on this catwalk in a Chelsea artist space, but the Mulleavys had a lighter touch because of their airy fabrics and loose-weave knits.
“The draped dresses in gauze and lace were spectacular,” said Ikram Goldman, the Chicago retailer who advises first lady Michelle Obama on her wardrobe. “The way they were manipulated and draped to perfection on the body. … They were beautiful. They were perfect.”
VERA WANG
Black — at least the way Vera Wang does it — can be light.
Wang debuted her fall collection for the editors, stylists and retailers who have gotten quite used to seeing black over the past few days, but made them seem new.
The show’s title was “The Bride Wore Black,” but Wang said in her notes she was drawn to the color (or non-color, as it may be) because it’s “a contemporary metaphor for youth, romance and sophistication ringed ever so slightly with a sense of mystery.”
She opened with
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